Monday, October 3, 2016

162. King of the Castle and Queen of the Palace ...

The two star attractions when visiting Edinburgh must be Edinburgh Castle and The Palace of Holyroodhouse and both are joined by the Royal Mile - an ancient thoroughfare lined with mainly Georgian-style buildings - including St Giles cathedral ( which dates back to the 14thC ) - but today the streets are lined with cheap souvenir shops and even cheaper eateries enticing the thousands of tourists that treat the cobblestones each day.


Edinburgh Castle is an historic fortress which dominates the city skyline from its position on the Castle Rock in the centre of the city. Archaeologists have established human occupation of the rock since at least the Iron Age (2nd century AD).




The castle stands upon the plug of an extinct volcano, which is estimated to have risen about 350 million years ago during the lower Carboniferous period. The Castle Rock is the remains of a volcanic pipe, which cut through the surrounding sedimentary rock before cooling to form very hard dolerite, a type of basalt.



Seen from every angle throughout the city and surrounding suburbs, the Castle is an imposing reminder of Scoland's history.



 The summit of the Castle Rock is 130 metres above sea level, with rocky cliffs to the south, west and north, rising to a height of 80 metres (260 ft) above the surrounding landscape. This means that the only readily accessible route to the castle lies to the east, where the ridge slopes more gently. The defensive advantage of such a site is self-evident, but the geology of the rock also presents difficulties, since basalt is extremely impermeable.




 There has been a royal castle on the rock since at least the reign of David I in the 12th century, and the site continued to be a royal residence until 1633.



In 1561 the Catholic Mary, Queen of Scots, returned from France to begin her reign, which was marred by crises and quarrels amongst the powerful Protestant Scottish nobility. 



In 1565, the Queen made an unpopular marriage with Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley, and the following year, in a small room of the Palace at Edinburgh Castle, she gave birth to their son James, who would later be King of both Scotland and England.

Mary's reign was, however, brought to an abrupt end. Three months after the murder of Darnley at Kirk o' Field in 1567, she married James Hepburn, 4th Earl of Bothwell, one of the chief murder suspects. A large proportion of the nobility rebelled, resulting ultimately in the imprisonment and forced abdication of Mary at Loch Leven Castle. She escaped and fled to England and the crown was bestowed on the head of the infant King James VI.



The castle is also the site of the Scottish National War Memorial and the National War Museum of Scotland. The British Army is still responsible for some parts of the castle, although its presence is now largely ceremonial and administrative.

The Great Hall
 



Few of the present buildings pre-date the Lang Siege of the 16th century, when the medieval defences were largely destroyed by artillery bombardment. The most notable exceptions are St Margaret's Chapel from the early 12th century, which is regarded as the oldest building in Edinburgh, the Royal Palace and the early-16th-century Great Hall, although the interiors have been much altered from the mid-Victorian period onwards.



As one of the most important strongholds in the Kingdom of Scotland, Edinburgh Castle was involved in many historical conflicts from the Wars of Scottish Independence in the 14th century to the Jacobite Rising of 1745. Research undertaken in 2014 identified 26 sieges in its 1100-year-old history, giving it a claim to having been "the most besieged place in Great Britain and one of the most attacked in the world".

 
Graves of dogs that have resided within the Castle ...


Leaving the Castle walls 
 
and negotiating my way down the Royal Mile 

to the gates of the Palace of Holyroodhouse
 


The Palace of Holyroodhouse  is the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland and is located at the bottom of the Royal Mile, at the opposite end to Edinburgh Castle. The Palace has served as the principal residence of the Kings and Queens of Scots since the 16th century, and is still used as a setting for state occasions and official entertaining.




Queen Elizabeth spends one week in residence at Holyrood Palace at the beginning of each summer, where she carries out a range of official engagements and ceremonies. 




The palace as it stands today was built between 1671-1678 designed by Sir William Bruce. The plain Doric order is used for the services at ground floor, the Ionic order is used for the state apartments on the first floor while the elaborate Corinthian order is used for the royal apartments on the second floor.



  

The 16th century Historic Apartments of Mary, Queen of Scots and the State Apartments, used for official and state entertaining, are open to the public throughout the year, except when members of the Royal Family are in residence.
 


The palace has seen many monarchs come and go and changes in layout and function. And the occasional occupation and looting by opposing forces – including in   1650, either by accident or design, when the east range of the palace was set on fire during its occupation by Oliver Cromwell's soldiers. 


Photography is not allowed inside the Palace - so for me it was a game of hide-n-seek from the guards to record my visit ... 
 


The Great Gallery, the largest room in the palace, is decorated with 110 portraits of the Scottish monarchs, beginning with the legendary Fergus I, who supposedly ruled from 330 BC. The portraits were all completed between 1684 and 1686 by Jacob de Wet II.


After 1707, Scotland's representative peers were elected here to be sent to Westminster. Bonnie Prince Charlie held evening balls in the gallery during his brief occupation, and it later became a Catholic chapel for the Comte d'Artois. Today it is used for large functions including investitures and banquets.
Mary Queen of Scots still in residence
 


The roof of the abbey church - ajoining the Palace - collapsed in 1768 ...

  leaving it as it currently stands ...
 
Back stairs for paramours on the run ...



The gardens of the palace extend to some 10 acres (4.0 ha) ...
 
set within the much larger Holyrood Park ...
 

which includes Arthur’s Seat to the west.
 
Attached to the palace is the Queen's Gallery ...


housing an exhibition of artworks from the royal collection ...







Although what looked like the royal standard was flying, I don't think any of the Windsor clan were in residence ...
An interesting delve into the history books ...
Next I'll take you on a tour of the magnificent Portraits Gallery ... hope you can join me ...

 

Saturday, October 1, 2016

161. The Wanderer Takes Off Again ...

Traveling for a full twelve months three years ago was a wonderful experience for me and whetted my appetite to do it again - so after much planning and with twenty pages of spread sheet detailing the cities I intend visiting during 2016 / 2017, my Senior's Gap Year #2 has finally taken flight ...


This big bird - aptly named Charles Kingsford Smith - was waiting for me at Sydney airport to whisk me off to lands and adventures on the other side of the planet. And after 32 grueling hours on the go it finally deposited me in the city of men wearing dresses, eating haggis and and squeezing noisy bagpipes ...


... yep you guessed - here I am in Edinburgh - and after that totally unbearable and extremely unnatural episode sealed up in a tin can breathing second-hand air from over 500 fellow travelers, what better way to clear the head and get the body mind and soul back into top gear, than to set off climbing 250m to the highest point in the city -  Arthur's Seat.


Situated just a mile from the city centre in Holyrood Park - and described by Robert Louis Stevenson as "a hill for magnitude, a mountain in virtue of its bold design" - it was quite a bold undertaking by this non-mountaineering tourist to attempt the hike to the summit..


... so far so good - nice easy gentle paved path - nothing too serious happening here ...
 

 ... a fork in the path - which one to take - these giggly hikers decide on taking the left path, so I'll take the right track and follow the other quieter more professional-looking group ...


 ... very pretty landscape - and nice bracing fresh Scottish air filtering into my lungs - heart rate up a beat or two but still a gentle comfortable climb - easy-peezy ...


... oooppps - I spoke too soon - did someone mention steps ... ??? ... not in the tourist brochures Joyce - that terrible grinding bone-on-bone sound echoing down over the glen is my less-than-perfect knees complaining bitterly ...


... after at least twelve million rocky steps and with the heart rate up considerably by now, I reach about half way, passing a few fellow climbers, but mostly being passed by many more show-offs - but I'm still in there with the best of 'em ... 


... finally the steps disappear and the path evens out a bit ...


... no time for resting now - there's a peak to conquer ...


... and finally after a couple of hour's worth of climbing, I reach the summit ...


... and feeling mighty proud of myself too ...
... being the most senior climber on the top by at least a generation or two ...


... wonderful  360 degree panoramas of the city, the bay and the Midlothian plains below ...


... but I must admit, I was hoping to find at least a Starbucks up here - would kill for a coffee ...


 ... and that's the next adventure awaiting me - Edinburgh Castle ...


... and after much heavy breathing to slow the heart rate down - and sitting in the warm sun loving this wonderful view, it was time to consider the way home - there must be an easier path down - don't think I could face all those steps again ...


... my first - and only - sighting of heather ...


 ... there is that path - no steps - not on the tourist maps but, never-the-less heading down ...


  
... did I really climb all the way up there ...


... almost to the base camp - and much needed caffeine - and there to the bottom left is the Palace of Holyroodhouse - and is that the Royal Standard flapping in the breeze - perhaps Liz is home - or at least one of the wee kiddies ... better check that one out tomorrow ... in the meantime it's coffee and food then home to soak the aching feet ... hope you kept up with me ...